Fiesta XR2 Turbo Conversion - Wiring guide for MFi

How to Convert | Wiring it up | FAQ | My build diary

By the fact your here you've either stumbled by accident or you would like a further look into the wiring side of things and you have a big mess on the floor and it looks a little like this





Fear not, it's actually quite straight forward and in a couple of hours you'll have a lovely labeled ready to install loom.
First things first look for three main components the two ecu plugs and the purple/blue relay holder this you'll probably find in the dash part of the loom after the fuse box. This is the fuel pump relay, the relay itself is prone to burning out especially if placed within the engine bay.



If you can't find the relay which is bright pink, it is identifiable by the following numbers 69125 followed by 8566 9P704 AA and 6HB30 stamped on the side.
Once you have found these items you will need to pull them out and away from the rest of the loom.
One particular Green/Black wire which originates from the ECU plug will lead you to a relay on the fuse box, it will be Brown and have KE in big letters on the top obviously the wire will need to be cut but also remove the Relay as this will be needed later. The relay is also identified with the following 86AGION323-AB, DIODE SRG PROTECTION, 72UF001 and 9J05 down the side.
Another noticeable set of wires is the 3x Yellow and Black these all meet together and join a large Red/Black and Blue/Black these can be cut at the join.
The rest of the separation process is a case of removing the lights, indicators, temp sender and cooling fan feed (you will use the existing XR2 ancillaries to perform these functions). You will now be left with ignition lives, permanent lives and earths.





Now is a good time to tidy things up start with the two ECU plugs and work your way down just taping every 150mm to keep things in order and also taping around where groups of wires branch off to their sensors.
Okay now that's the hard part out the way. Once the engine and components are in place start putting the plugs on. On the below picture I have labeled all them which should make life a little easier.



The rest as they say is history just get your soldering iron out and make those connections a list of which is below.

• 3x Browns together (from sensors) - to be connect to earth
• 1x Black (from ECU) - to be connected to black on coil
• 1x Black/Green (from ECU) to connect to pin87 on Brown relay
• 1x Green (from ECU) - to connect to Green lead on coil
• 2x Brown (from sensors) - to be connected to earth
• 3x Yellow/Black (feed to sensors) - connect to 10Amp fused ignition live
• 1x Black (from Amal valve connector) - connect to black lead on coil

From the Fuel Pump relay

• 1x Thick red - This requires a 25Amp feed
• 1x Brown - connect this to Earth
• 1x Black - connect to Black on coil
• 1x Thick Black/Red - This will need to be connected to the live on your fuel pump
• 1x thin Black/Red - This will be on the same terminal as the above but goes to the Auxiliary air device plug
  
• 1x Green/Red - this will be from the middle terminal and again go directly to your ECU

Note: Both these wires should have remained connected to the ECU and fuel pump relay holder when the loom was removed, if they were cut then just look at the ecu plug and you should find somewhere along the loom the other end of the two wires(where it was cut)as it will be the same coloured wiring. solder these back together or extend them if you wish to relocate the fuel pump relay else where.

From the Brown Relay

• Pin 87 - connects to Black/Green wire describe in above from the loom
• Pin 86 - requires 10A live ignition feed
• Pin 85 - connect to earth

Now a word of advice - I wouldn't tape everything up just yet as it's best to check everything works first.
If you don't fancy doing this yourself it's best to find someone who has done this before or they'll probably include their research and development in their costs, I have had quotes from £80 to £900 for the wiring alone so be warned. I ( Andy ) can strip label and post back for £50 if required.


Part 2 Installation of the loom
First off I would suggest getting the loom in position ie connect it all up to the relevant plugs most of the plugs are colour coded to the sensors and those that aren’t will only fit the correct sensor or opposite plug. I have also a table to help on page 2


Once this is done confirm you can see all the wires that need connecting up I have made a check list so you can familiarise yourself with the ends that need connecting and it will be useful to double check if troubleshooting is required. It is pretty much essential you have a multimeter handy as you will need it for check you have the right feed in the right place, it is also useful for checking you have a good earth (another point that can cause teething problems).


Figure 1.1

Label number	Wire Colour	Connect to
2	Brown	Earth (from fuel pump relay)
4	Black & red (Thick)	Fuel Pump Positive terminal
5	Red (Thick)	Permanent 12volt (put a 25amp fuse inline)
6	Black & Yellow x3	Ignition live 12v (put a 10amp fuse inline)
10	Brown	Earth (Various)
11	Green	Green on XR2 coil
12	Black	Black on XR2 coil (from amal valve, ECU & fuel pump relay valve)
13	Black and Green	Pin 87 on Brown KE relay

After you have connected number 13 to the KE relay you will be left with 2 more pins 85 which will need to be connected to an earth and 86 which will be need to be connected to a ignition live (this can be the same as connection number 6 (shown in Fig.1.1) if it is easier than finding another source) this requires a 10amp fuse inline)

For the fuses simple blade types will be sufficient. I have enclosed a few from the RS Turbo fuse box although new ones are available from your local motor factors. Connect the wires to them using the correct rated spade connector (blue if I remember correctly) the same applies to connecting the wires to the KE relay. I you are not happy with the Purple relay block the Pink fuel pump relay sits in you, can always use the correct rated blade terminals if you wish (Although yours looks in good condition).

Don’t forget you will be using the XR2 loom for the starter motor, alternator(charging system) and other ancillaries such as brake fluid sensors, you should not have to chop into any of your XR2 wiring only to connect up to the coil.

Best advice I can give is just take your time and work through logically any problems let me know and I’ll do my best to help..

Here is a list of the RS Turbo connector plugs. Connecting the plugs shouldn’t be a problem but it’s always useful for trouble shooting.

Connectors table

Type	Colour	Wire colour	Haynesref:	Destination
Square 2pin	Brown	Brown/White,Yellow&Black	142	Thermal time switch
Square 2pin	Blue	Brown/White, Yellow&Black	20	Cold start
Square 2pin	Yellow	Brown/Green& Brown	141	Temp sensor(1)
Square 2pin	Black	Red/Black & Brown	11	Aux Air
Round 2pin	Black	Brown/Black & Brown	4	Air Temp
Square 3pin	Black	Brown/Black, Brown/Green & Brown	143	Throttle sensor
Square 3pin	Black	Brown/Yellow, Brown/Green & Brown	3	Air flow pedeometer
Square 2pin	Black	Black & Brown/Green	146	Wastegate solenoid (amal valve)
Square 2pin	Grey	Black/Yellow & Brown	121	Pressure Actuator
Square 3pin	Black	Green/Yellow, Brown & Black/Red	29	Distrubutor
Square 2pin	Green	Blue/Yellow & Brown	104	Knock Sensor
Round 2pin	Black	Brown & Brown/Green	141	Temp Sensor(2)

How to Convert | Wiring it up | FAQ | My build diary

Fiesta XR2 Turbo Conversion - FAQ about the MK2 XR2 RS Turbo Engine conversion

How to Convert | Wiring it up | FAQ | My build diary

Here is a list of commonly asked questions from people trying to put the RS Turbo engine in their Fiesta XR2.

Conversion (also see Engine)
When using a fiesta turbo & down pipe, will it foul the front crossmember?
Do I have to cut the front crossmember when using the Escort RS Turbo engine?
What exhausts system is used or who does one off systems suitable?
What radiator and intercooler are used or are they custom made?
What fuel pump can be used? as the fiesta one is in the tank and I heard the Escort RS Turbo pump is to great a pressure.
Can you fit an RS Turbo Engine into a MK1 fiesta?
Do you have to relocate the battery?
How much will this sort of conversion cost me?
Suspension and Brakes
What's the best buy in suspension terms?
What brake upgrades are available for 13" wheels?
What brake upgrades are available for 15" wheels?
What is offset?
Engine
Are late CVH XR3i/earlyXR2i inlet manifold and injectors etc. the same as turbo ones?
Which dump valve shall I use, do they all do the same thing?
Charge Coolers, Intercoolers. What is the difference?
Bodywork
What is the best way of refitting an XR2 bodykit?
Oddities
What about the Turbo Technics kit you used to be able to buy?
Where can I buy all the RS Turbo bits I need?
Which way should I go Efi or Mfi?


Conversion

Q. When using a fiesta turbo & down pipe, will it foul the front crossmember?
A. No, You should be able to drop the fiesta Turbo Lump straight in a Mk2 to with no cutting of the front cross-member needed.
Q. Do I have to cut the front crossmember when using the Escort RS Turbo engine?
A. You can use a SAAB Manifold with the Escort RS Turbo to get away with not cutting the front crossmember. Otherwise you will have to cut a shallow section of the crossmember where the exhaust exits there is already a little inlet where it needs to be cut - remember to get it welded back up afterwards this is a structural part of the car.
Q. What exhausts system is used or who does one off systems suitable?
A. Big City Tyres in Nottingham make up stainless steel exhausts to suit, or you can chop and weld an (ESCORT)RS Turbo exhaust - I did on my first XRTurbo or you will Need A Fiesta Turbo complete system, this will pretty much fit, you may need to weld the rubber hangers in right places. I believe Power Flow will make you and exhaust, failing that Severn Valley Motor sport in Telford could make you one up (scorpion/Mongoose) but you're looking at around £250-£300. But Obviously you DO have to use a turbo exhaust.
Q. What radiator and intercooler are used or are they custom made?
A. you can use the escort RSTurbo radiator and intercooler .It's best to use this as it has twice the capacity as the xr2 i.e. thicker it also has mounts for the standard RS Turbo intercooler this makes it look a more standard factory fit
You will have to take the inner skin out of the top cross member to bring the radiator forward enough to clear the turbo also the is a bit of surplus metal that can be grinded from the turbo itself giving you extra clearance. The bottom of the radiator and intercooler sits nicely in the gutter in front of the bottom cross member, again you may have to chisel a bit away each side to allow room for the water hoses try and line every thing cut with rubber to stop chafing. The next thing is your fan this is where most people start hacking away at the front panel left right and centre yes that's the easy way and I've nothing against it but if you're careful you can still leave a strip going across in front of the fan as you can see on mine this I feel looks better, you could use a knowle fan these I believe are slimmer but will set you back another £100 or so I used the standard RST fan.
Q. What fuel pump can be used? as the fiesta one is in the tank and I heard the Escort RS Turbo pump is to great a pressure.
A. I don't believe you can have to great a pressure I use a cosworth one on my set up as long as you have a return to the tank then the fuel meter will return the unwanted back to the tank
You need a XR2 tank with a swirl pot fitted you can get these from the Fiesta Centre for £90 approx and then just connect an RS Turbo pump externally. It will be fine provided it is mounted correct at bottom level of tank, so it is gravity fed. you can have the Pressure set-up when fitted. I personally use a Cosworth fuel pump from the Sapphire it sits on a nice ready made cradle next to a fuel filter, oh don't forget to get hold of a fuel accumulator if going for the Escort lump as this will smooth out the pulses coming from the pump.
Q. Can you fit an RS Turbo Engine into a MK1 fiesta?
A. Yes you can although you will need a CVH engine and gearbox installation kit from the Fiesta centre or the gearbox will foul the inner wing, also you have less room at the front so using the RSTurbo radiator becomes a problem.
Q. Do you have to relocate the battery?
A. No you don't have to you can turn the battery tray sideward and place it there. I prefer to move it to the boot as it gives more space up front
Q. How much will this sort of conversion cost me?
A. Here is a breakdown of what mine cost you may be able to skip some but it give you something to look at

Block and Initial buy turbo blown & engine knackered	350
Up rated 2nd hand Head & Cam	£200
Stainless Exhaust and Tank with built in swirl pot	£100
Spark Distributor	£50
Turbo good working order	£100
Series 2 Gearbox with LSD	£180
Wiring sort out and labeled up	£50
Sapphire Cosworth Fuel Pump	£40
Cheap Clutch	£25
Fuel Distributor clean and set up	£67.68
Air, Water and Fuel Hoses	£40
Pipercross cone Air Filter	£50
Engine rebuild inc new pistons	£580
Jamex Suspension Kit	£232.45
up rated Bushes from Rally design	£71
Ball Joints, wheel bearings steering joints	£67
Stainless Braided Hoses	£26.30
Fuel filter	£12
Under seal for areas that have be cut	£13
Plug leads normal	£12
Standard ford Motorcraft plugs and distributor seal	£11
-31 up rated Actuator	£80
2nd hand Superchips Chip	£80
NOMAD Dump Valve	£50
Boost Gauge	£30
Petrol Hose	£15
Well lane set up and competition spark plugs	90
Tie bar bushes	£8
Dipstick and tube	£20
filler cap	£3
Gear box oil synthetic	£32
Dump valve noggin on intake	£20
Tarox discs and pads	£100
Recondition of radiator	£103
Starter motor	£10
Total £2918.43

Suspension and Brakes

Q. What's the best buy in suspension terms?
A. I recommend the Jamex sportsline kit works a treat loads of speed bumps round here and bad roads too. Alternatively if you have the money go for a nice set of Leda, in my opinion the best suspension that (sensible) money can buy (most of the Hot hatch racers use them). (SVM used Penski suspension on there 550bhp KA that cost £1500 a corner!) drop bout 35mm, that should be perfect all round set-up.
Q. What brake upgrades are available for 13" wheels?
A. There isn't much available if you want to go bigger. I personally use a tarox disc/Ferodo pad set up works fine for me - just make sure you brake calipers are working well
Q. What brake upgrades are available for 15" wheels?
A. You have many choices but within most budgets there are two main options one is go for drill, grooved or both something like the Tarox. With grooved and drilled discs the only thing you'll gain is less fade you won't increase your stopping power, the only thing to bare in mind you generally get what you pay for I've had cheaper discs in the past and they warped pretty quickly I swear by Tarox 6 grooves
If you have 15" rims you may want to consider the big disc kit from Rally design this will set you back £150 + VAT and in return you get 280mm discs and everything you need to mount your calipers to them. As the discs are bigger so is the leverage, your calipers will now have more control and stopping power. Also with the large disc you'll have more surface area for cooling where as if you were to use larger calipers ie rst items you are in fact covering up more disc = more heat.

**Interesting fact did you know that if you sit at a set of lights with your foot on the brake peddle you are more likely to warp you discs especially after hard braking.**
Q. What is offset?
A. If you imagine the wheel in front of you as if you were about to roll it along the ground now the centre of the wheel would be zero offset and either way would be plus or minus in mm offset click the picture below to see the diagram in full. You will hear the term offset used when buying a set of wheels as different car makes and models require different offsets due to how far their hubs stick out.


Engine

Q. Are late CVH XR3i/earlyXR2i inlet manifold and injectors etc. the same as turbo ones?
A. The EFI Inlet is same but I believe the Injectors will probably be heavier spray.
Q. Which dump valve shall I use, do they all do the same thing?
A. Yes all dump valves do the same thing they release air. but and a big but is not all allow for smooth idling as far as I'm aware the best ones I think, (as painstaking I have tried them all) are the Bailey’s piston type that is specially for the Escort RST this is around £70 and a heavy duty sprung piston type from NOMAD racing around £60 I'm currently using the NOMAD version as this can be rebuilt if cleaning is required.

For mounting, the t-piece cut into the top hose is okay but for efficiency the closer to the inlet manifold the better I have had a noggin welded to the charge carrier plus I would n't want to be cutting a set of Samco hoses eek.
Q. Charge Coolers, Intercoolers. What is the difference?
A. An intercooler uses passing air to cool the fins where as a charge cooler uses water, the water has it's own radiator and pump for cooling the charge cooler is more efficient especially if space is an issue but you can use both if you wish.

Bodywork

Q. What is the best way of refitting an XR2 bodykit?
A. For the side skirts you can still buy the plastic recepticals from ford @ 15p ea +vat , I suggest you go to a breakers yard and get the orginal double threaded lugs from another side skirt, as, using too corse a thread will result in an annoying gap between skirt and bodywork, you may also want to consider getting some black draft excluder to place between skirt and bodywork again this will make the final article much more factory looking. The underside will need rivoting.
As for the arches a short but corse screw with a washer (pref plastic) from the inside will do the job nicley.

Oddities

Q. What about the Turbo Technics kit you used to be able to buy?
A. If you can get hold of it it's worth considering I knew someone who bought one for 50quid! Just the down pipe and air filter were missing. The manifold is designed to reduce lag, it uses a hybrid turbo (T2 housing/T3 compressor wheel). It uses a modified *standard* carb with a special plenum top, it's intercooled, and the standard boost was *6* psi [similar to an RS]. TT supply modified pistons with the kit to reduce the compression and stop detonation.
The figures are 7.4 seconds 0-60mph, and 125mph
You can use your existing cylinder head, camshaft, exhaust etc.
Apparently the car is quite a handfull [due to torque steer] and TT fitted TCA polybushes to try to help out.
80-120 was supposed to take about 5 seconds
A TT xr2 in fast ford shootout with a bleed valve and Magnex zorst running 14psi, it was knocking out 175bhp!! A year later it appeared in Revs with no mention of a rebuild!

Turbo Technics documentation can be found in the Media section of RetroFiesta.co.uk.
Q. Where can I buy all the RS Turbo bits I need?
Ebay is probably the best bet these days. Although you can’t beat getting hold of an RS Turbo that is breaking. That way you can ensure you have all the parts needed and you can check the engine is running.
Q. Which way should I go Efi or Mfi?
A.The main point that sticks in peoples minds is the removing of the little bit out the crossmember, I would say the main argument is really down to how much money you are willing to spend and how much power you want from the word go. For power to pound I would suggest the MFi setup. Although for simplicity ie no cutting I would suggest the Efi although the simplicity of it is arguable. This said the Electronic fuel injection does lend itself to be more controllable at higher stages of tune.

As for the battery either way you're better relocating if you want things looking neat under your bonnet.

How to Convert | Wiring it up | FAQ | My build diary

Fiesta XR2 Turbo Conversion - Converting the MK2 XR2 to accept the RS Turbo Engine

How to Convert | Wiring it up | FAQ | My build diary

This is an overview of the conversion process for transplanting the Escort RS Turbo engine and running gear into the fiesta MK2 XR2


Contents
Donor parts
Strip the bay
Modify the engine bay
Inserting the main components
Plumbing
The fueling system
The Electrics and Wiring
The final touches and testing

Donor Parts
The first thing you'll need is your donor parts this will consist of the following
Engine - block and head one thing to look for is an engine number this may save a lot of explaining to the police at a later date.
Fuel Injection system - including: Inlet manifold including injectors and red pipes to link to the fuel distributor. As for the tank I would suggest you buy the tank from the fiesta center this is design for this very type of conversion. From there I use the Sierra Cosworth type fuel pump mainly because of it's size and convenience as it comes in it's own mounting cradle which also house a nicely sized fuel filter.
Turbo - there's no sure fire way of checking for a knackered one but if grab the compressor shaft there should be very little movement back and forth also look for cracks in the exhaust housing. It is also good if you can get hold of the down pipe this makes a good start for your exhaust.
Wiring - Probably best to grab the hole loom from the escort RS then you'll be sure not to miss anything although you only be using the engine management part.
Gearbox - To limit the spin (as you will get it) you are best searching for the Limited Slip Differential type box, you may get this with the engine again there is no way of checking what condition the box is in, but no whether it is a LSD type from the casing , the easiest way of check if it has the LSD is with the drive shafts removed have a look through the hole if you can see daylight you have he right one if however you can see a bevel this will not be the LSD type diff.




Cooling - for this many say just stick with the XR2 radiator but for proper cooling I use the RS Turbo radiator as this has twice the cooling capacity in addition you will need all associated hoses. As for the intercooler the standard one will attach to the Radiator and look really neat once installed again you will need all the turbo hoses.
return to top of page

Strip the bay
For best results remove everything, I would suggest removing the calipers from the discs, all coolant piping and connecting wires, cables, fuel lines, exhaust etc. then move to the hubs themselves remove the steering joints tie bar bolts and track control arms then simply put a good jack at the base of the sump and undo the cross member bolts making sure that jack is pumped up enough to take the weight of the block. Next move onto the upper engine mounts remove these also. Finally undo the strut tops and place these to the ground - or you may want to leave these until the engine is lowered slightly to avoid strain on the shafts as you'll be needing these later.
NB. Once the manifold is removed you may want to offer the turbo up in place to mark what will need cutting on the cross member
return to top of page

Modify the engine bay
Now the engine and components are out it is time to start work on the engine bay itself it may also be a good time to get the pressure hose out and have a good scrub as no doubt you'll be wanting to show this new motor off once fitted.
Firstly, attack the battery tray this will have to be removed as this is where the fuel distributor will be fitted, how you do this is up to you, ideally, you should be able to drill out the spot welds and it should fall off but more often than not you'll have to get out the angle grinder.
Secondly, you will have to move down to the cross member here you will have to enlarge the exhaust exit to accommodate the exhaust from the turbo although you should have already marked this from step one.
Thirdly, you will have to modify the front panel to locate the radiator and intercooler further forward to give clearance to the turbo. I would start by cutting little noggins out from the inner skin where the top of the radiator and intercooler will sit, this should give a good inch or so also for the bottom the best thing would be to place the radiator and intercooler so it fits in the gutter in front of the cross member again this will move it forward. Once they are moved forward far enough to clear the turbo you have to start making allowances the other side for the cooling fan as this sits on the front for an RS Turbo. At this point many fall into the trap of just hacking into the front panel, if you are careful you can fit the fan slightly lower down this will elevate the need to chop a section out of the strip that runs along below you headlights instead you will be able to nibble a little out behind it so the blades of the fan can slip behind and the middle section of the fan will sit just below.
You should now have plenty of room for you fan, radiator and intercooler you will now have to fabricate some brackets, this part is up to you on the three cars I have done I've always found something in the garage that does the job. With the fan you should be able to modify the existing brackets.
return to top of page

Inserting the main components
This bit is relatively straight forward, fitting the engine and gearbox is as the Haynes manual says "simply a reversal of removal" now at this point you'll be thinking you need a engine crane etc well fear not if you have a good jack and a couple of adjustable axle stands it is possible, this process normally takes me about an hour - obviously the use of a crane would make things easier.
Now if the engine isn't fitted with it inlet manifold I would suggest doing this now, along with fitting you turbo and exhaust manifold this is when you find out if your radiator is moved forward enough. You will also notice a bit stick out on the turbo that doesn't seem to be doing a lot other than looking like it could do potential damage to the radiator, the solution for this is get you angle grinder out, but be careful not to chop off anything important and if in doubt leave it!
Now your engine should be taking shape the next task will be the fuel distributor, this is the thing that has red pipes coming out of it and also what the air filter fits onto it is also known as a vein meter probably because the red pipes resemble archeries in a strange way. My advise would be to connect the red pipes up to the injectors and on the fuel distributor and place the unit on the inner wing it should sit nicely just above the gearbox exactly how it does on the Escort without causing any stress to the red fuel pipes, make sure your pipe from the turbo intake to the fuel meter also fits otherwise it will be difficult to get one that will fit. Once you are happy with it's placement drill two holes through the inner wing that correspond with the holes on the meter then form a bracket for he top rubber mount this will then bolt up where you battery tray was.
return to top of page

Plumbling
Well now you have all you components in the right place why not put the rest of the parts on like the remaining turbo hoses and plumbing for the radiator. for the water you will have to fit an extra t-piece near the alternator to allow the two systems to work with each other , if you have the rest of the RS Pipes everything should be relatively straight forward.
Don't forget to connect all your vacuums as air leaks count towards a lot of teething problems you may have.
return to top of page

The fueling system
This part will also apply if you are fitting a non turbo injection to your car - but that's boring so lets get on
Method One - The most simple and straight forward method is to go out and buy a pre-made fuel tank with the swirl pot from the RS Turbo welded inside the tank front of the MK2 fiesta. You'll need a swirl pot as when you corner at speed the fuel will surge to one side of the tank and as the injection pump will be pulling fuel at such a rate there will be a chance it will suck in air bubbles and this is not good as no fuel in a turbo'd engine could have serious consequence besides the pump will require a larger diameter pipe than that of the standard tank.
These type of tanks can be bought for £89 from Norwich Fiesta Centre this is the method I use.
From the tank I prefer to mount the fuel pump somewhere at the rear of the car, ideally the pump should not be mounted above the tank as the pump is gravity fed. I have used the pump from the Sapphire Cosworth the reason one because it was going cheap and two because it sits in it's own cradle along side the fuel filter this makes it look nice and neat and easy to fit.
Method Two - This would be to use a Facet silver top type pump and the standard tank this can be popular if you have just upgraded from using twin 40's although I'd recommend in this case you sell the Facet with your forty's as from the Facet you will need to feed a swirl pot, this will basically take the form of a cylinder with a top and bottom and with four pipes a feed from the facet pump at the top, a return from the injection system, a return to the fuel tank for overflow and a feed at the bottom to the injection pump of your choice. These can be made if you're handy with the welder but bare in mind this has to carry fuel which could be very hazardous if it was to spring a leak in the engine bay!! and to buy a swirl pot you would be looking at a similar price to that of the ready made injection tank.
Note : Always use high pressure hose and good stainless steel jubilee clips. To get your fuel to the front of the car and back again I use the standard bore fuel lines on the XR2 this seems to be up to the job although you could swap these out for larger versions found on the turbo or other injection models or even get some braided hoses made to length but these are quite costly.
return to top of page

Electrics
General
Oh no I hear you shout! fear not for some reason this is made to seem a lot more complicated than it need be.
First up decide where you want to have your battery I know the favorite is to mount this in the rear section either where the spare wheel normally sits or opposite in the other void, this will need to be mounted securely as in the event of an accident you wouldn't like that hitting you round the head at 30mph! - You will also need to find and earthing point, I found that drilling a hole then welding a nut on top produced an excellent earthing point, I would recommend this be welded to the axle tunnel due to it being a good bit of metal!
From the battery you will need a good thick cable from the battery to the starter motor, you will have to get your money out on this one nip down to your local car electronics outlet and buy yourself the appropriate length of auto cable (not stereo) a good source would be midland magneto also buy a couple of connectors whilst you are there. An alternative would to search around the scrap yard and find a car with the battery mounted in the boot I was told Jaguars run this set up although I could be wrong.
You cable from the starter motor to the alternator will remain the same. From the start motor take another live feed to your inner wing hear you'll need to get either a distribution box, heavy duty fuse or just good at soldering as you need to connect you live feed to the existing XR2 electronics after all you'll still need your lights to work.
RS Turbo loom
Click here to see the full guide.
Okay onto the RS Turbo loom - Thanks to Mark Lister AKA Bomber I have based this section of the loom I have recently completed for him. The trick with the loom is just a case of tracing the wires back to there source and pulling/cutting the bits you need from the bits you don't.
If you don't fancy doing this yourself it's best to find someone who has done this before or they'll probably include their research and development in their costs, I have had quotes from £80 to £900 for the wiring alone so be warned. I can strip label and post back for £50 if required.
return to top of page

Final touches and testing
Okay now is a good time to go over everything check all jubilee clips are fully tightened, wheel bolts are done up etc... it's a good idea to have a friend with you just to double check. Make sure your oil is in your engine and gearbox, brake fluid topped up, water is in and most importantly you have fuel - don't laugh. Okay turn the key until your dash lights come on first you should hear you fuel pump prime up it may be an idea to just go around and check you have no fuel leaks then turn her over a good idea would be to disconnect the fuel just to get you oil pressure flowing around the engine and turbo as it has probably been standing for a little while and dry bearings tend to wear very quickly!
Okay connect your fuel feed and spin that motor.... okay you should have a big grin across your face at this moment, if not don't worry as I have another section for trouble shooting.
Well welcome to the world of turbo'd XR2's you now have the potential to run over 200bhp through your 185/60r13's and take it from me it's big fun !!
return to top of page

How to Convert | Wiring it up | FAQ | My build diary

Fiesta XR2 Turbo Conversion - A Day in the life of...

How to Convert | Wiring it up | FAQ | My build diary


This is a diary of my last XR2 turbo, as you can see by the dates it was quite a while ago however for those owning or contiplating converting an XR2 to a Turbo it may prove interesting

Here's a couple of Pictures in it's hey day at Santa Pod

Well I'll start back in april of 2001 when I bought it - It was in the factory colour burgandy, and there was much speculation one whether or not is was an XR2 40 - a limited edition. Whether it was or wasn't I never found out for sure but I did contact the dealer and it was a one off dealer special with a limited run althogh he never gave out numbers I've never seen another the same colour on the road since




Wed 4th April 2001
Spent most of the afternoon cutting the rust from the corners of the boot as you can probably see from the photo it has spread to the outer skin, this is likely to have been caused by trapped water. I will have to cut back considerably if I want to stop it spreading further.



Wed 4th April 2001
Removing bonnet, headlights and radiator to allow removal of the engine.

Sat 7th April 2001
Removed remaining wires and plumbing and single handedly removed engine, forgot to pull a sensor off the carb and ripped it clean fortunately I won't be needing it
Sat 7th April 2001
My friend had a spare cage for his Nova so I thought I'd try it in the fiesta - a word of advise DON'T apart from it not fitting I managed to put a nasty scrape near my petrol cap although I'm having a repair done in that area so I can get it done at the same time (but still annoying)



Sat 7th April 2001
Whilst I was at the front I have had a further look at the inner wings looks like another bit of welding . It's quite strange as the rest of the bodywork seems mint, guess it's just were the water gets trapped.

Wed 11th April 2001
Did a long awaited oil change on the RS lump, I'll do another when I change the sump and gearbox
I have trimmed back the inner wings on F57 to prepare for welding
And finally I have labeled and marked up the loom on both cars ready for removing the turbo lump from F781 and inserting the standard engine from F57
Sat 14th April 2001
My friend came around to have a look at the work required for welding, he has thankfully accepted and will commence on the 21st April
Sun 15th April 2001
With some help, I managed to remove the RS unit and install the standard CVH lump by 11pm the beers came out and we'd had quite enough.
Mon 16th April 2001
Up first thing to finish things off - calipers back on, petrol tanks swapped and exhaust on - guess what it fired up straight away so after a few minor adjustments to the carb everything was well... slow, I guess, but never less will allow me to concentrate on the project itself
So a big thank you to Alan and Darran for their help.



Thurs 19th April 2001
Came home from work and decided to do some grinding, I managed to remove the battery tray, trim back yet more rust from the front panel, cut out a little noggin on the cross member for the exhaust exit, then finished off by forming the hole for the intercooler to sit. At this point it decided to chuck it down with rain so I thought I'd quit whilst I was ahead.





I also wanted to move the RS Lump and turn my car around for better access a quick phone call and before I knew it six burly blokes appeared and my car was turned around and the lump was exactly where I wanted it, in the next instance they were gone and didn't even want a coffee - thanks lads appreciate the help.
Fri 20th April 2001
There was a bit of rust on the front side of the drivers rear arch so I removed the piece of kit around the arch and though I'd investigate, I wish I hadn't. Never mind once it's welded at least that will be everything sorted.



Sat 21st April 2001
Things finally moving in a positive direction. Lee, a friend who has worked in a dealer body shop for over 12 years came round to do the first installment of welding, managed to cover the passenger inner wing, a little bit and the airel hole on the top side of the wing, the drivers side inner wing and one side of the front panel, the quality of the work is excellent despite having to use substandard welding wire that we bought from a local supplier, however I have now bought some decent stuff from Machine Mart.


I also cut a rather large aperture for the radiator to sit lower at the front, we're starting to be a little concerned about the strength of the front panel so something may have to be done about this soon.
Sun 22nd April 2001
Once again Lee cracked on with the welding and now the front end is complete, just the sanding and painting to go, after he left I sealed the non-visible welds. I will leave the visible ones for him to deal with as I don't want to make a mess of things.
I have also started to build the engine back up with a new dipstick and auto-choke thingy.
Mon 23rd April 2001
Well I'm knackered but the engine is now in place I managed to do it with just a good jack and a couple of axle stands now it's a case of putting everything together.

Tues 24th April 2001
Worked out most of the plumbing and Intercooler hoses also made the brackets for the Radiator and Intercooler
Wed 25th April 2001
My back seems to be taking a toll it seems to have worsened over the past few days, although partly through working on the car I think I'm having troubles with the chairs at work
Despite this I have managed to drill the hole through the bulkhead, make a start on the wiring and mount the fuel distributor.
Sat 28th April 2001
As my back is still giving me troubles I haven't managed to do anything but Lee carried on with the welding this time doing a great job of the rear quarter panel/sill, basically having to construct one from nothing as the good old rust beetle had really bit in. Needless to say he's done another great job.
also the intercooler brackets are now welded in place, from what Lee is saying he should be able to complete the welding next weekend.

Thurs 3th May 2001
Well here we are in another month I have tidied the loom up and plugged on all the engine sensors, I have also neatened up the front panel and painted the majority of it.
Fri 4th May 2001
My new fuel tank with internal swirl pot arrived today from Fiesta Centre along with my racing clutch should handle up to 230bhp from Burton so I should have no more clutch slipping worries, I also went and bought more pipes of varying sizes to finish off the plumbing I have left. Roll on Saturday
Sat 5th May 2001
Fitted the tank although not very happy with the mounting points nor the position of the fuel pump feed the photos will explain this better. Despite this I have mounted it and positioned the fuel pump.
I have also sealed the new welds on the inner wings and will paint tomorrow once it has gone off. I have also neatened up the RS Turbo loom and put it in place, ran the starter motor feed and ground some protruding brackets off the intercooler.
Sun 6th May 2001
Happy with the progress today, both inner wings are now painted and finish although they do look very red in the photos I can assure you they're not so bright in the flesh. I took the opportunity to replace the water bottles and the XR2 wiring.





The fuel pump was also on the agenda today mounting it well to the back seat base and making off all the connections although I will state I'm not happy with the position of the fuel pump feed, I just have to get hold of a pair of longer 10mm bolts to secure the pump fully then I can put this bit out of my mind.





Back up front I have finished the rest of the boost hoses of which I'm quite happy with the best thing is that they fit snuggly in the front bumper I just need some jubilee clips and a top hose to complete this.
Pretty productive day I plan to have the radiator properly mounted tomorrow and make a start on the wiring lets see what happens.



Mon 7th May 2001
Well I managed to get the battery mounted, radiator and fan so I'm pleased with that in addition I've managed to mount the bonnet correctly so I am more than happy.
Things have really started moving now so just a case of wiring up and finishing I plan to bring the deadline forward to the 19th June possibly ready for the Fiesta in the Park but it will require a lot of effort.
Weds 9th May 2001
Not a great deal to report but managed to swap the rear suspension over between the two cars so now Project C7 is sitting 35mm lower well at the back anyway.
Oh and I have removed the front towing eye from F781 so that the front valance would look acceptable again and replaced the headlight as the lense had mysteriously worked it's way lose.
Thursday 31st May 2001
Started the car up first thing in the morning after a few turns it fired up everything seemed fine went to work came out at 5pm started the car and it sounded like I was running on two cylinders anyway I left it running hoping it would clear itself... nothing so, I trundled home it was the same all the way I decided at this point it needed to be looked at by a professional
Sorry there's a large gap I will be filling it in shortly
Friday 1st June 2001
Turned the key and once again it was running like a dog so I popped down to my local engine tuners unfortunately the earliest I could have any work done was Monday so I booked it in and the long weekend began
Monday 4th June 2001
Limped to Moore Bridge Diagnostic centre in the morning dreading the worst, I was thinking leaking injectors, vapor locks and sticking valves....
Most of the day I spent playing on the PC trying to keep my mind off things then the phone rang.
It was 4.30pm and my car was ready for collection the problem? over fueling... an adjustment to the fueling and a change of spark plugs and £41.50 later it ran perfect, I must say I was most impressed with both the value and work carried out so here's a free plug
Automotive Diagnostic Centre
Unit 3 Moorbridge, Hucknall Lane Bulwell
Nottingham Nottinghamshire NG6 8AF
Tel: 0115 975 5200
Fri 8th June 2001
Collected some oil and a filter ready for fitting my newly conditioned gearbox, racing clutch and long awaited sump which has been leaking for the past year
Sat 9th June 2001
Everything fitted, feels nice and smooth now, although, the clutch doesn't half bite, I have started to put the interior back in and will continue work on my front valance.
Thanks to Mark who kindly installed gearbox and changed the sump.
Sunday 24th June 2001
The Journey
Well the day started early me picking my brother up at 8.30am and the voyage started, we when straight in tailing a group of modded R5's in we went and straight to the signing up office.
The runs
£10 later I found myself on the line raring to go 14.97sec was my first run I decided to start playing with the boost after a couple of disastrous runs I managed a 14.40 which is the quickest I've done since E46ROH covering a 14.22 the day just got hotter and hotter and times didn't seem to improve so we called it a day.


The journey home
was fun seeing many RS's everyone was acknowledging each other which was nice... we smelt oil occasionally on the way back thinking it was just coming out the dump valve I kept my eye on the oil pressure it was fine so we continued. That was until we reached Nottingham to hear a screeching noise every time I'd tried to pull away, on later inspection the reverse sensor had sheared off and the 2" long thread had made its way into the g/b so it was kind of a good day
I managed to get towed home so I guess I'll have to be removing it tomorrow.
Friday 24th August 2001
Wow doesn't time fly, I'll be honest I haven't done a single thing to F57 due to financial constraints although to keep me busy Bomber a.k.a Mark Lister has asked me to prepare his wiring loom for an up and coming MK1 Turbo conversion.
I will receive it tomorrow and hopefully start work, this will be the ideal opportunity to expand my conversion section under wiring as I know this causes a lot of people problems.
Watch this space
Saturday 4th September 2001
After meeting with Marks parents I received a package containing a full RS Turbo wiring loom, I happen to take this with me to my parents house, where I decided to get busy by the afternoon I had the majority of it finished and just required labeling. I won't go into it here but you can read more about the wiring here.
Sunday 14th October 2001
Well finally I have landed myself with a decent paid job enabling me to continue Project C7. First on my list is to put things right namely the gearbox but before I can even think about removal I have a problem - I have lost my locking wheel nuts! After trying fruitlessly for many an hour with a claw hammer and a socket plus trying any other method in my tool box I finally decided a trip to B&Q was needed once there I found the ideal tool a 4lb lump hammer, 20mins later all locking wheel bolts were removed. Unfortunately I was losing light so I thought better leave the rest until next weekend.
Saturday 20th October 2001
Today has to be one of the most productive days for about three months, I've managed to remove the gearbox, this went to plan and was fairly straight forward, on closer inspection I could see where the sensor had sheared off and it seemed to be still there (not fallen into the gearbox as first thought) also I found the internals of the sensor which happen to be a ball bearing and spring again they weren't in the gearbox. At a guess I would think some of the bearings have run dry and possibly ceased them, I will take it in to Hi Gear for a check over as I plan to run a lot more power through it in the future!
Next was a pod for the gauges, I have been planning this ever since I bought them! they had been mounted on a piece of plywood with lots of insulation tape - hardly professional looking. Well now I have made one out of fiberglass which looks quite smart I'll post pictures as soon as I get my hands on the digi camera again.


Finally I decided to get busy with the front valance again being not happy with the look of it so I went to it with a power sander chisel and three tubs of fiberglass, it is by no means finished but is starting to take shape.

Sunday 28th October 2001
Well at least there wasn't a months gap between now and the last entry, well today was really a continuation of the valance, I've worked on it from 11am until 5pm although it looks better it is still quite a way from being finished besides I've got to make a mould of it and then create the actual article from that itself. However it is starting to look like the valance I wanted rather than a cornflakes box to bits of plywood and a lump of fibreglass anyway enough talking have a look yourself.



Sunday 11th November 2001
You thought I'd slipped slightly hadn't you, well the reason is because it's damn cold out there. Anyways I've now had the gearbox repaired for a very reasonable £130 this was a favour which I appreciate greatly from HiGear of Nottingham. If you read earlier in this diary you'll know that I managed to lose all oil in my gearbox resulting in killing 5th gear, I also had to have replaced 3&4th the corresponding bearings selectors and a couple of other bits and bobs. Next time I smell oil I shall be stopping pronto.
Well after a couple of hours work start to finish with just the aid of a jack and axle stands oh plus the 3 bricks :) I've manage to refit the box just a case of waiting for the oil which should fingers crossed arrive before the weekend.
Thursday 6th December 2001
Well the winter months are and there's not really a lot to tell apart from last weekend when I fired F57 up for the first time in five months mind you the should be quite an occasion actually, but I couldn't drive her due to not having enough juice in the really dead ( 5v ) 12v battery. Though despite this after jump starting it off another car she ran like a dream in fact as if it had never been off the road.
I've just ordered my new battery and I have also bought some new strut top rubbers as the old ones were perished, these will be fitted before she's back on the road. Unfortunately still no ETA for going back on the road but I would estimate January all being well. It's been quite hard to photograph my progress of late but should have the digi camera soon.

Saturday 8th December 2001
Finally the day has come, I am now insured for £378 that was inclusive of all the modifications the advantages of being old eh?
That battery arrived courtesy of Glenn along with the strut top mounts of which I shall fit tomorrow. I have also order a digi camera which will be my present for xmas this should allow me to make the site a little more picturesque.
Anyway I'm off to give the car a road test so I'll fill you in tomorrow.
Sunday 9th December 2001
Everything seems to be running a dream, just need some drier weather to turn up the boost
Sunday 30th December 2001
A busy day today, I have now fitted new strut top mounts these went on with relative ease, and sprayed the lower rear quarter readying it for fitting the remaining bodykit.
Also I have now raised the boost to 14psi, getting closer but I was unable to get it any higher as I didn't have the apppropriate tools to hand, whilst under there I noticed that the gearbox oil appears to be leaking from one of the driveshaft seals, these will be changed hopefully on Thursday the 3rd, via my trusty friend in Mansfield.
Wednesday 2nd January 2002
Well my first entry of the new year, today I finally put the rest of my bodykit on, the fixings I needed weren't available from Ford whilst there I bought a set of drivshaft seals ready for tomorrow, after that stop I set about looking in the scrapyard, but unfortuantely there were no XR2's which I must say has to be a first, does this mean they're starting to get scarce? I ended up improvising by cutting the heads of some threaded screws, well the kits certainly not going anywhere so I would class it as a success.
Saturday 16th March 2002
Ooops here I go again missing huge chunks out of my diary, well to cut it short alot of things have happened but not to much has been done to the car.
Anyway, today I have change the oil and filter, changed the fuel tank back to the original one I had prior to buying the fiesta centre item which is for sale. I also removed the water feed to the turbo and replaced the radiator top hose for a more robust item without a t'piece in the hope that it will be more durable on trackdays.
The reason behind removing the water feed is so that the engine as a whole will run a little cooler.
Sunday 17th March 2002
I have started work on the rear bumper which as everything seems easier on paper, with regards to being a rare car - I appreciate that and have decided that any thing I do must be reversible in this instance a new bodykit would revert me back to standard ;)
but for now I shall go the bumper route, the rear end looks quite a sight at the moment I shall have pictures tomorrow.. I have next Thursday and Friday off work so by Sunday I should have both front and rear bumpers painted, finished and the car ready to be painted (well the bonnet anyway) I'm also looking at a front opening bonnet which will utilise the 106 hinges again I'll keep you ll posted.
Oh just to add I have found a pair of spots that fit perfectly in the XR2i front bumper and what were they off? - a Skoda Felcia that was sitting pretty in the scrappers.
Another star buy was an auto boot release from the MK3 complete with switch this cost an amazing £6. I have seen this fitted to XR2Babes car which works a treat so I'll be showing you how it fits.
Finally to close --- the fog light two ideas on this one is 206 style with it mounted centrally alternatively have them in existing positions poking through (finished of course)
Thursday 21st March 2002
Well today I continued with the rear bumper and also blended the front in some more to finish it off better, tomorrow I shall continue.
Friday 22nd March 2002
More of the same thing, sanding, filling, sanding, filling you get the idea by 4.30pm I went ahead with the painting and by 6pm I had them fitted, I'm quite happy with the overall result but need to find a better way of fixing them.
Saturday 23rd March 2002
Today I went round to my friends house for a change of scenery as decided to use my old petrol tank as the fiesta centre one is continuing to annoy me as when under half full it'll cause the car to stall as the petrol surges to one side.
The down side with my old tank is that is has a leak so we decided to tackle this, I learnt a valuable lesson today and that is not to weld fuel tanks as the make loud noises and spurt flames, after nearly blowing it up we managed to patch it together and get it on the car, all seems to be working well.
Tuesday 26th March 2002
After two days of strong fuel smells and dripping fuel I thought it may be an idea to investigate the tank further, after dropping the tank down I located the leak to be on the return pipe, which is on the top half of the tank, I decided to just keep the tank on half empty for the time being until I come up with a lasting solution
Wednesday 27th March 2002
After purchasing my new number plate A11 XRT last month I felt it was time to get it on the car so off I went to the DVLA despite quite a lengthy queue no sooner was I at the desk, I was walking away with the necessary tax disc to start using my new plates.
After nipping to Maccess (local autoparts) I bought some mesh for the front bumper and set to work. I decided against the fogs and instead I have enlarge the middle aparture to let more air through and meshed either side to allow the number plate to be mounted on the right again this was to allow more air through to the radiator.
Friday 29th March 2002
Here we are another weekend is here this weekend I decided I was to make the bonnet front opening as lifting it off every other day becomes quite a strain especially if in you work clothes and it's raining !
I spotted the brackets from a Peugeot 106 and set about making the brackets, it was relatively slow progress, but by the end of the day I had something that resembled a mount.
Saturday 30th March 2002
Today flew by, and with the help of Lee (Sparky as he's more commonly known) the bonnet was now functional and everything welded into place, I really am happy with this now it just needs tidying and a bonnet painting.
Sunday 7th April 2002
After much contiplating I decided to go to SantaPod a quick call to my brother and we were off.
After much traffic we arrived about 1pm, which happened to be their lunch half hour so with the car in the fire up lane it gave me an oppurtunity to get myself sorted out with my pass, which incidently is now £13 for unlimited runs which is still good value in my books.
I wasn't expecting miricles as long as I hit the 14.44 I achieved before I had all the trouble with my gearbox last May. My first and second runs were 14.65 and 14.63 which after missing a gear on each I thought was quite good.
With the conditions nigh on perfect despite many folk complaining of lack of grip (isn't that always the case?) I set off smashing my previous time getting a 14.23 which was just 0.01secs slower than my personal best 4 years previous although I was over the moon and as time was ticking due to a 40 minute wait between runs I said to my brother the next would be the last! and what a run it was too 13.98secs yes you heard right I've finally made it into the 13's well I was exstatic, but on this note we thought it would be a good time to roll out.
As my goal this year was to get into the 13's I have now had to change it and say low 13's ie 13.5sec or lower so we'll see what happens.
Later that evening I took everything off my bulkhead and cleaned around ready for painting the bonnet the following day.
Monday 8th April 2002
Early start, I removed the rear bumper in hope that I will get chance to do something with it before the weekend.
I reach SMG body repairs at just before 9am where I met Steve and handed over the keys and set off on foot, well it's all in his hands, can't wait to see the result hopefully Wednesday/Thursday
Wednesday 10th April 2002
Start work on the bumper mould and left it outside in hope that it would cure overnight
Thursday 11th April 2002
Called the bodyshop around 11am to see how it was coming along, much to my disappointment it hadn't been started due to another job turning from one panel to a full respray.
Oh well, I decided it would be best just to collect the car and try and put it back together for the Doncaster show.
On my return home I checked upon the bumper unfortuantly it was still tacky so decided I would have to leave it inside to cure, yet another thing not ready for the weekend.
Friday 12th April 2002
I worked until 12.20am to get the car in a road worthy state, ie I now have window wipers and the mesh is back in the bonnet, I have also used the illumination wiring for the heater controls to illuminate the boost and oil pressure so I now know what boost I'm running at night aswell.
Saturday 13th April 2002
I was up at 5.45am and set off at 7am to the Doncaster show, much to my suprise it only took 40mins so I was there in plenty of time, everything went smoothly and was on the fordsport stand before the public were allowed in.
There was plenty to see and the main attraction for me had to be the flip paint jobs so many cars seem to be sporting these days.
I had a mixed response to mine, obviously the state it was in (ie ready for the bodyshop) didn't do it any favours and it hardly looked like a show car, but never the less it attracted a hell of a lot more when the bonnet was up and had quite a few people asking about the conversion and also the bumpers.
Sadly there were only three other Mk2 fiestas there and one Mk1 although that's not necessarly a bad thing as I guess it makes mine a little more unique.
I had planned on going for both days, but due to me being so tired, and the car not being anywhere near how I wanted it, I took the lie in and decided to save it all for another day.

Well the rest of the year really
So much time has passed an no updates well basically it's been sitting in my garage since the last trackday so rather than go to waste I thought I would sell it to someone who has a little more time spare so this will be my last entry for F57KHK aka A11 XRT
Thank you to Jason at Retrofiesta.co.uk for hosting my XR2 stuff whilst I’ve been finding a new home for it.

How to Convert | Wiring it up | FAQ | My build diary